This is my third visit to London, and this time around I’ll be staying in the city for over five weeks for my study abroad program at Kingston University. Typically, in my Postcards From series I write one blog post per city/region that I visit. However, since I’ll be staying in London for such an extended period of time I thought that I’d break my time in the city down into several smaller posts, with this being the first! In this post I’m going to break down my first twenty four hours here in the capital of the UK.
One of my friends from college, Britney, flew into London to spend the week here with me before my course starts. We met at Paddington Station, and took the underground to our AirBnB in Kensington. We’re staying at a really great AirBnB with host Sadan. We have our own room with an ensuite bathroom, and access to her backyard, which is basically a carefully cared for garden with palms and ivy. Plus, Sadan is a lovely human who chatted with my friend and myself for a while about our interests in London and gave us suggestions based around what we wanted to see (bigger bonus: Sadan works in the field that Britney majored in so that’s exciting).
Our first stop was a late dinner at Dunbar’s, an Indian restaurant near Notting Hill. The restaurant itself was sort of small, i.e. our kind waiter had to physically move our table out of the way so that I could squeeze behind it and sit, and then put the table back in place so that we could eat. Although it was small, the food was so good at Dunbar’s. I’m by no means an expert on Indian cuisine, but the lemon rice and roasted cauliflower I had was obscenely tasty. The rice had little flakes of lemon zest and lots of mustard seeds, and the cauliflower had a hint of spice that I couldn’t put my finger on.
Britney loves boba and one of her only requests was that we get boba while in London. She picked the Bubbleology in Notting Hill.
9PM: Photo Session in Notting Hill
Our walk back from getting dinner and boba turned into a mini impromptu photoshoot with some of the painted houses on Portobello Road. Most of the houses are painted in varying shades of pastel colors with a vibrant door out front. However, my favorite was the house painted in a deep purple and had a door the color of a pumpkin.
10AM: Farm Girl + Portobello Road
Britney and I both love experimenting with local farm to table and health food restaurants, so we decided to have breakfast on our first day in London at Farm Girl. Farm Girl takes a holistic and healthy approach to cafe culture, and serves a wide variety of dishes that fit within that framework. I got a turmeric latte with coconut milk, a salad with avocado dressing, and a vegan brownie. If you ever find yourself at Farm Girl, GET THE BROWNIE. It was so creamy, and chocolatey, but not too dense or rich. My non-veg friend even said that it was delicious, and couldn’t tell that it was made without dairy.
12PM: Kings Cross
I’ve already established how much of a Harry Potter fan I am in my post from Edinburgh, so it’s no surprise that one of our first stops in London was visiting the Harry Potter’s Platform 9 3/4 at Kings Cross Station. Platform 9 3/4 is a replica from the first film of the Harry Potter franchise when Harry runs through the magical wall between platform nine and ten to reach the hidden platform with the train that will take him to Hogwarts. There is a cart with luggage that sticks out of the wall where tourists are able to photograph themselves pretending to push their items through the wall. There is a pro photographer on hand who takes your photos, which can be bought at the attached store. As always there was a huge line at the actual picture taking point and in the store itself. However, we waited in line, browsed the gift shop, and made our purchases in all under an hour.
Britney studied abroad in Florence last summer, so her love for Italian cuisine runs deep, which is why we found ourself dining in a Vapiano that we passed on the street. I first went to Vapiano in Edinburgh, and loved the style of the restaurant—-and the food of course. How it works: there are various counters situated around the dining area where you can order traditional Italian cuisine (aka pizza, risotto, salad, and pasta), after your order is placed you simply swipe your cafeteria card that was given to you by the hostess when you walked in (the card stores the items that you ordered for an easy check out), then you dine on your tasty food (we got bruschetta, arribiatta, and bolengese), finally you present your cafeteria card to the hostess on your way out and pay.
If I lived in London (or anywhere that has a Vapiano) it would be one of my favorite stops! It’s so quick, tasty, and authentic!
8PM: Millennium Bridge + St. Paul’s
As a die hard Harry Potter fan, Britney wanted to visit Millennium Bridge as the site of one of the intro scenes from the Deathly Hallows movie. I, on the other hand, wanted to stand on the bridge and see the best views of Saint Paul’s Cathedral. The dome of the cathedral peeks out from behind the surrounding buildings, making the perfect vantage point on Millennium Bridge. We were on the bridge as the sun was beginning to go down, so the cathedral, the Thames, and the Bridge itself were all engulfed in a gorgeous hazy golden shadow.
Have you ever been to London? What was your favorite thing that you did in the city?
I first visited Oxford for an afternoon during the summer of 2014. Even though I was only there for a few hours, I instantly fell in love with the tan brickwork and winding streets of the city. In 2014, I was visiting with a tour group—hence the brevity of the trip—and toured most of the ‘main attractions’ of the colleges, but little else of the city. Four years later, I’ve made it back to explore the city as well as the colleges.
I made a point to see the famous Radcliffe Camera! Nope, this building doesn’t function as a camera in the sense that we know it. Instead, it’s one of the libraries for undergraduates.
Little did I know the day of my visit was an ‘open day’ at Oxford so there were a bunch of high schoolers running around the city looking for the college of their dreams. The open day meant that most of the colleges were closed so that the potential students could access everything. However, I woke up really early, like 5AM early, and before all of the students arrived and was able to snap a few quick photos and see the picturesque colleges.
Once colleges began opening for the open day, I turned away from the university and began exploring the city. My first stop was, of course, the botanical gardens. Oxford boasts one of the world’s oldest botanical gardens, which began collecting medicinal plants in the seventeenth century. The gardens had quite a large variety of plants for being in such a small space. They also have information on many of their plants and how past humans have used them. If you’re plant obsessed like me, this is totally the place for you!
After touring the gardens I simply walked around the city, visited a few local clothing boutiques, and the Covered Markets.
After spending nearly a week in Scotland, it was time for me to return to England. I hopped on a quick train ride down the eastern coast from Edinburgh to York. Founded by the ancient Romans, York is a delightful city on the Ouse River. As an added bonus it has an incredible thirteenth century Gothic cathedral with original stained glass! Beyond the cathedral and river, the city boasts a lively city center with lots of shops and restaurants.
I stayed in an AirBnB while in York. This is the first time that I’ve stayed in an AirBnB as a solo traveler, and my host, Clare, couldn’t have given me a better experience. When I checked in, Clare welcomed me into her home and took me to my private attic room. It was so cozy and had a great view from the attic window! Once I was settled in, she showed me a bunch of maps and resources that would help me explore the city—including vouchers for York Minster and the Jorvik Viking Centre. Clare was so kind and sweet! If you’re ever in York, or just want to travel somewhere cool with AirBnB, stay with Clare!
Want $40 in travel credit from AirBnB? Click here to find out how!
The weather got seriously warmer as I returned to England, making a stroll along the river a delightful experience. There was some sort of rowing competition going on on the river, so I sat on the original Roman walls and watched for a bit. The locals didn’t seem that interested, but living in the Midwest we certainly don’t have that sort of event ever so I thought it was a good time.
Although boats are cool, there is truly nothing like the York Minster. There just isn’t. Now, I’ve been to a lot of the greatest European cathedrals (Notre Dame de Paris, Florence Cathedral, St. Paul’s, Westminster, etc.), but in my opinion none of them live up to the York Minster. The cathedral itself towers over the city, and its towers dominate the skyline. The stained glass really steals the show for me. It’s original from the Medieval period when it was installed, and is currently undergoing restoration for preservation. The details in the stained glass were immaculate. I’m not an artist so I’m always impressed when I see great detailing in works of art, but somehow this seemed different and more impressive. I already want to go back.
Next stop, Oxford. Then, London where I’ll be for nearly five weeks while studying abroad at Kingston University.
Arriving at the Waverley train station was truly a magical experience. And I mean that quite literally. As all Harry Potter fans know, the seven book series was largely written in various cafes around the city of Edinburgh. I remember first reading about Hogsmead when I was in elementary school, and the imagery I conjured up in my brain was eerily similar to the aesthetics of the Royal Mile. Don’t even get me started on how the castle could literally be Hogwarts itself. The gigantic stone castle is perched atop a steep hill overlooking the city, and its everything I imagined Hogwarts looking like. From atop the castle you can see much of the city as well as the coast. And from below, you can almost pick out wizards darting about on their enchanted broomsticks.
I stayed at Haystack Hostel in a triple room with two real nice British girls in town for a festival. I think that it’s a fairly new hostel as they were still installing mirrors and light fixtures into the rooms during my stay. I’d personally describe the decor of the hostel as shabby chic—lots of faux fur pillows and blankets and pine. I chose the hostel because it’s basically right across the street from Waverley station. However, it was on the third floor of the building, without an elevator. I wasnt surprised because most buildings in Europe don’t have elevators, but I was sort of sad. I’m getting quite tired of lugging my big suitcase up and down stairs.
Scottish Gallery of Modern Art (one + two): Edinburgh has not one but two Modern art galleries within the city. I was pumped to see them, until I realized that they were quite a trek outside of the city center. Everything in Edinburgh is situated on a hill, including the two galleries. It felt like I walked uphill all of the way there, and back. However, I did enjoy getting out of the bustling city and seeing some proper British homes. The Galleries themselves were sort of lackluster, in my humble opinion as an art historian in the making. The One had an exhibit about Jenny Saville (read about her below), but none of the works touched me the same way that Aleppo did. Two had a good collection of surrealist paintings—Dalí, Magritte, and the likes. Both Galleries had large outdoor installations, too.
Scottish National Gallery: I’m not saying that I wasn’t impressed by the National Gallery, it just wasn’t my favorite museum that I’ve been to. With that being said, I had a moment whilst in the Italian Renaissance gallery. Surrounded by paintings of the great Italian masters was a painting by Jenny Saville titled Aleppo. Sticking out like a sore thumb in a room of oil paintings and religious imagery, Aleppo is made of pastels and depicts a contemporary scene of the horrific events from the city of Aleppo. Saville drew inspiration from the tradition of ‘Pieta’ (aka the moment where Mary is cradling the body of Jesus), which is why this work was included in the Renaissance room. Except instead of biblical figures, Saville used images of dying children. The pain in the eyes of the children shook me to my bones.
Royal Mile: Okay, so the Royal Mile is quite touristy, yes, but it’s also a must see in Edinburgh. Basically, it’s the major street that cuts through Old Town. It begins at the Holyrood Palace and ends at the Castle. There were lots of shops selling Scottish wool, trinkets, and souvenirs as well as pubs and diners. It was mostly up hill, which was a strain on my already over exerted calves.
Today is the summer solstice, and two days ago I tried to buy a winter coat to protect me from the winter like weather here in Glasgow (Wondering what I mean by try? Well, I was in line and getting ready to buy said coat in a Marks & Spencer when a woman walked by the checkout line and snatched it out of my hands. I was too weirded out to attempt to buy another). It’s seriously so cold here, especially when the dang wind zips through the streets.
Minus the weather, I really dig Glasgow. There are so many museums, parks, and bakeries that I couldn’t ever visit them all. Plus, you’ll be walking down the street when suddenly bagpipes will just start playing. I even saw a bagpipe band, which consisted of like 10 bagpipes and a few bass drums! They were leading an impromptu parade. This parade was unlike any other I had seen. Following the bagpipes were taxis and busses screeching their horns non-stop for the entirety of the parade route. I asked around and none of the locals were able to articulate what the parade was in celebration of.
I saw a lot, did a lot, and walked around 20 or so miles in Glasgow. Here are the specifics:
Kelvingrove Museum and Art Gallery (+ Park): I’d like to start out by saying that there are an incredible amount of parks in Glasgow, like so so many. Situated in this park, is one of the most visited museums in Scotland––the Kelvingrove Museum. It’s divided into two separate sections, Life and Expression. The Life portion is centered around the natural history of Scotland, while the Expression portion focuses on art. The Museum mostly has Scottish, like the Glasgow Boys, and European, like Dalí, artists. Unsurprisingly one of the highlights of the collection was my favorite piece––Christ of Saint John of the Cross. Dalí’s work is situated in its owned room, that’s darkened and lit from above with special lights. It was totally breathtaking.
Glasgow Cathedral and Cemetery: When I texted my mom that I was touring a cemetery as part of my explorations in Glasgow she was a little confused. I feel like it’s sort of a European tourist-y thing to do––visiting old cemeteries that is. This one in particular had really great views as it was situated on a necropolis of sorts. I was able to see stellar views of the city as well as the cathedral below. The art history major living inside my bones was saddened to find out that no bishop resides in the Glasgow Cathedral (aka it isn’t a cathedral), and instead a Presbyterian church now lives in the space. Even though it isn’t technically a cathedral, it was still a gorgeous building.
People’s Palace: When I heard that there was an indoor winter garden, I knew that meant one thing…succulents. And I wasn’t disappointed by their collection of plants in the indoor garden. They had cinnamon, lemons, tropical trees, and so many other types of gorgeous plants. Also included in the Palace is a museum about the people of Glasgow, and a cafe.
Glasgow Modern Art Museum: I had a hard time locating the gallery even though it was located in central downtown. The GoMA is housed in an old neoclassical building, which is probably what threw me off. The sprawling galleries were filled with art from many prominent individuals in the world of Modern art––can you say Andy Warhol (his mushroom soup can!!) and Andy Goldsworthy. I’m a sucker for all things Goldsworthy so I was delighted that they had a room featuring mostly his works.
Let’s talk about crossing streets in the UK. How do you do it? Which direction do you look? Cars seemingly jump from any direction and I just do not understand. Looking and seeing a passing car not having a driver in the correct front seat is terrifying. My brain doesn’t register that I’m in England and drivers sit on the left side of the car and instead jumps immediately to robot driving cars. I’m not sure why robot powered cars are so scary to me because it’s 2018 and those exist. Anyway, send me good thoughts so I don’t accidentally bump into a car while crossing the street––or rather a car doesn’t accidentally bump into me.
I feel like I didn’t do a ton of touristy things while I was in Manchester. I just did a lot of walking and ‘window tourism.’ I’m not sure if window tourism is a thing, but I basically I walked around the city and looked at things without going inside––sort of the same thing as window shopping but with architecture. Maybe this is just regular tourism, but I like the ever flashy window tourism term better.
I saw the Manchester Cathedral, the canals, the shopping districts, Town Hall, some of the train stations, as well as Chinatown. The canals were my favorite part of the city. Pedestrian foot bridges criss cross the waterways and larger train bridges sit further above the water. Lots of geese live on the canals, and several houseboats were scattered throughout the waterways as well. Trust me, it was as picturesque as it sounds. Independent galleries, restaurants, and bars are intermixed in the canals as well. I’d consider living in one of the houseboats if I knew how to swim.
One of the few places that I went to in Manchester was the Manchester Art Gallery. Most of the art that they had on display was from the eighteenth and nineteenth century, which are the periods of which my main interests lie. I think most, if not all, of the collection was by British artists. I feel like in art history courses we mostly brush over British artists––except Turner, Hockney, and Hirst––and I’m really loving getting introduced to new British artists! For example, I fell in love with Henry Moore’s Mount’s Bay. The Art Gallery placed two mustard yellow chairs in front of the painting, which is allows the viewers (aka, me) to sit and look at the choppy waves. The chairs make the museum seem much more home–y and sort of make it seem like you’re watching the ocean out the window of your beach house. Another cool artist that I saw was Kate Haywood, but they only had a few of her works on display so I gotta do some more research before I declare her a new fav artist.
Writing about all things travel, vegan, and sustainable living. You’ll find me drinking chai tea lattes, and admiring succulents from afar. Outside of The Color Gold, I’m a college student studying art history at a small liberal arts college in the Midwest.